Northwest Cruisers of Idaho - Auto Spring vs. Spring Works

75cruiser

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Auto Spring vs. Spring Works
Jan 14^th, 2009 at 10:49pm

I am going to use a little fed tax money to treat myself to a nice ride. (I'm not talking Vegas style) I have talked to both Auto Spring and Spring Works and they are both around $400-450 to soften all four corners and straighten up the drivers side lean. I was wondering if anyone had dealt with these guys or if you had any suggestions. Would it be worth me pulling the bottom leaf to see if that softened the ride up. I wouldn't know how to modify the leafs to level the thing. Plus threre are no gaps in the clamps around the leafs and I was told by the guy at Auto Spring that no gap would make the ride rough.

Anyway any suggestions would be nice. It has an aftermarket Rancho system on it (don't know when it was put on)so the leafs are pretty beefy. It's an FJ40 also that I am talking about.

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FredTheMonster Club Member Offline I love this stuff! Posts: 383 Boise Idaho	Re: Auto Spring vs. Spring Works Reply #1 - Jan 15^th, 2009 at 2:51pm not much but I have worked with Mike at Spring Works and have been very happy with his work every time.
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NCS

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Re: Auto Spring vs. Spring Works
Reply #2 - Jan 15^th, 2009 at 6:51pm

Are you sure the frame is straight?

Are the shocks rancho 5000s? If they are, that's half the problem.

Have you measured frame to axle to see exactly where the lean is?

Swapping the springs side to side might fix the lean. Or you could shuffle the packs(swap main spring, keep next longest, swap the next, etc.

To soften up the ride, open the leaf clamps into a U shape. Take the leaf packs apart and remove any rust. Paint the leaves with graphite paint and put them back together. You might try leaving the smallest leaf out, but it's hard to say without seeing the springs. If the bushings are poly, be sure to grease them well.

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I would have been more comfortable dragged behind it . . . on my face.

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75cruiser

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Re: Auto Spring vs. Spring Works
Reply #3 - Jan 17^th, 2009 at 7:39pm

So theoretically I measure the distance from frame to ground. If I see one pack that is not doing the job I start swapping some of the main springs around on the good packs and get all the packs to support the same weight/height.

The spring says Rancho and 43033. Thats about all I got on what the lift is. It is only a 2 1/2 inch lift, not much but i like the height, but it rides rougher than heck. The guy at auto spring said that making some gaps in the clamps would really help the ride since most of them are clamped tight around the springs.

I am pretty sure the frame is straight. The cruiser in in really good condition and is pretty stock except the motor.

The bushings are poly but old and I was going to replace them when I had the job done. I saw some springs with "spacers" that were on the end of each leaf. I would have to do the research but it looked like they were a great idea.

I haven't done much in the way of suspension work but can figure things out. I am a little worried about how I am going to undo the clamps since I have limited tools to straighten out that thick of metal.

Thanks and let me know if you have any more suggestions.

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75cruiser YaBB Newbies Offline I'm lost Posts: 27 Meridian	Re: Auto Spring vs. Spring Works Reply #4 - Jan 17^th, 2009 at 7:43pm Oh one more question. What are these guys talking about when they tell me they are going to "re arch" to level the ride( the left/right lean). I would love to do this job myself if I can. I just don't want to end up with a cruiser that rides more like a jeep afterwards
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NCS

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Re: Auto Spring vs. Spring Works
Reply #5 - Jan 19^th, 2009 at 8:18pm

Measure for frame to axle to find the weaker packs.

Here's some light reading for you

http://www.rocky-road.com/omesprings.html

Re-arching is seen as a temporary fix. They heat the spring up and run it through some rollers to give it back it's arch. It doesn't repair any of the tinny crack that were formed of the years from work hardening.

Use white lithium grease on the bushings.

Ideally, you want spring clamps like this

http://www.nwcruisers.com/tech/hanger1/IMG_0803.JPG

or even without the bolt across the top.

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I would have been more comfortable dragged behind it . . . on my face.

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ginericfj80

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Re: Auto Spring vs. Spring Works
Reply #6 - Jan 20^th, 2009 at 3:18pm

You can do a cold re-arch and get a couple years out of them. You can use a harbor freight type pipe bender to do it. You seperate the leaves and do each one indivdually. You can also use a trim packer to level it out. The Cruiser lean is well documented in the leaf sprung models. Toyota made specific L and R springs to compensate for the gas tank and driver weight. A lot of the US made aftermarket springs made universal L and R springs which further exaggerates the lean.

If you have Rancho 2.5" lift springs you are screwed unless you have new spring installed or made. Their leaves are really thick and the hardening process they used made them really still. Poly bushings will give a firmer ride than rubber bushings and they don't flex as well as the rubber bushings.

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Eric V. TLCA 7328&&99 UZJ100 "Barnacle Edition" under construction&&FJ68 PROJECT (60 body, 80 Chassis and Running Gear)WAGON PARTS FS

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75cruiser YaBB Newbies Offline I'm lost Posts: 27 Meridian	Re: Auto Spring vs. Spring Works Reply #7 - Jan 20^th, 2009 at 11:54pm Thanks guys I will let you know if I have any more questions. I haven't read the links I got from NCS so I don't know if this addressed it but what is the best way to undo the clamps if I have limited tools?
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ginericfj80 Club Member Offline WAGON WHEELER! Posts: 1013	Re: Auto Spring vs. Spring Works Reply #8 - Jan 21^st, 2009 at 8:26am With a pry bar. You could cut them with a grinder but I'd probably just pry them open and leave them pointing up so that they keep the springs aligned about allow them to flex.
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Owyhee Jackass

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Re: Auto Spring vs. Spring Works
Reply #9 - Jan 22^nd, 2009 at 7:07am

I've worked with the guys at Auto Spring and have had great luck with them. The Spring Works people are A$$holes.

I had severe cruiser lean on the 55 and took measurements at all 4 corners, then took the springs in and had Auto Spring re-arch and add-a-leaf, it took two tries (they never charged me for the second time and I waited a few months to go back in with the springs) but I finally got it level. The add-a-leaf made it ride like hell though and I've since pulled the extra leaf out that they installed.

Good luck.

Dan

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Owyhee Jackass Club Member Offline The Dude Abides Posts: 643	Re: Auto Spring vs. Spring Works Reply #10 - Jan 23^rd, 2009 at 12:54pm As long as your at it, you might as well swap in the disc-brake front end I've got taking up space at my place. I've also got stock FJ40 springs. You could mix and match leaves from your lift and these packs to get the right lift/ride combo.
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75cruiser

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Re: Auto Spring vs. Spring Works
Reply #11 - Jan 29^th, 2009 at 9:40pm

ah you were at the xmas party I believe. If so I never heard from you about the front end so I thought you liked looking at it. I just got back from visiting the folks in MO. Sorry for the lapse in the action. If you are interested in letting me barter for the front end give me a call 830-3415 (Justin). I think there was an issue that came up in the discussion about the master cylinder or something if I change to disc? Give me a call I am in Meridian.

Thanks for the prybar tip I haven't had time to work on the FJ so when I get a chance I will try it.

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75cruiser YaBB Newbies Offline I'm lost Posts: 27 Meridian	Re: Auto Spring vs. Spring Works Reply #12 - Feb 15^th, 2009 at 8:42am Ih8mud is pretty set on replacing ubolts when you take them off. I was going to do my springs and drive the cruiser while I rebuilt the knuckles on the front end I bought and then take the ubolts back out to put the front end on. I don't want to replace them twice! Any suggestions?
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